The writing of this post was interrupted by the fight at Fat Hippo's OK Corral so is a fraction out of date and too late now for Big Don 'Mad' Kev Alviti's Valentine's Day Dinner. Still, I promised to give him the recipe for German Red Cabbage and then, as usual, I went overboard a bit.
A little
while back Big Don ‘Mad’ Kev Alviti posted an excellent recipe for pheasant
having landed a brace or two demonstrating that at heart he was more a family
man than the ruthless underboss of a powerful family. He also asked if any of his readers had other
recipes for pheasant so I posted a comment detailing the way I cook Guinea Fowl
which are, I suppose, Africa’s pheasants.
I suggested he served the dish with German style red cabbage, spaetzle
and cucumber dill salad.
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This is Sauerbraten (a marinaded roast beef) with Spaetzle and Red Cabbage.
The dish will look something like this but, delete the beef
and exchange it for the Guinea Fowl/Pheasant in the picture below:
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He seemed
pleased but wanted to know how to make German style red cabbage. I think German cuisine is much maligned and
definitely hovers in the shadow of its culinary powerful neighbor France in
much the same way as good, honest English food does. I would be hard pushed to state categorically
which my favorite dish was but I can say categorically that it would not be
French. I have no desire to upset any of
my French readers. You are the world’s
epicures. Most of the lexicon of
culinary terminology is derived from your language, a language also highly
regarded for its power to seduce women, so I think the French cottoned on to
the idea ages ago that most living creatures on Earth are motivated by instincts
to survive and procreate so why not do it stylishly. And so the French fashion industry was born,
Citroen and Facel Vega made barking mad cars, Brigitte Bardot proved that God
was having a really good day when he made Woman and every Chef the world over
strives for a Michelin star.
If I had to
choose one English dish, honey glazed roast pork with roast potatoes and
parsnips, boiled cabbage and parsley sauce would be right up there. The German dish would be any Wild Gericht,
(wild boar, venison) in a creamy mushroom sauce served with red cabbage and
spaetzle, the German pasta and it was the latter I suggested to Big Don Alviti
since we were dealing with pheasant.
Naturally I
wanted to reply and explain how one prepares red cabbage German style but then
I realized that we are so close to Valentine’s Day, a significant anniversary
for families like the Alvitis so, I thought, why not go the whole hog and do a
St Valentine’s Day Massacre Menu?
As a
result, this is a long post and since I have never photographed the dishes I
describe in the past, all the photos you see have been culled from the interweb
thingy but I will correct that when I prepare all this for Marcia in a few days
time.
First, the
recipe I suggested to Big Don Kev for pheasant a few days ago:
This is how
I prepare Guinea Fowl so it will work well with pheasant. It works with chicken
and duck too.
Portion the birds and place in a glass bowl. Add a couple of bay leaves,
roughly chopped onion, carrots, pepper corns, juniper berries, a few whole
cloves and cover with red wine. Cover and leave overnight in a cool place (we
have to stick it in the fridge in Angola).
Next day, brown the portions of bird off on high heat in a bit of olive oil in
a cast iron casserole. Add a couple of tablespoons of flour to the sizzling
birds, give it a good stir around and then add the strained liquid from the
marinade. Best to do it gradually while stirring gently so that the wine
combines with the flour and juices.
Strain a jar of pickled pearl onions (the really small ones) and place them in
another heavy based pan, add brown sugar, a tablespoon, and caramelize. Don’t
burn it, keep it all moving, and then add that to the birds.
Add wild mushrooms, can be dry but the heavier the flavor the better (button
mushrooms are a bit bland), and a chopped up big chunk of smoked bacon (not the
water injected sliced stuff you get in vacuum sealed packets) and also a pinch
of black pepper.
Let this simmer gently for an hour or two. Check every now and then to see it
isn’t burning on the bottom of the pan but be careful not to knock the flesh
apart. Add chicken stock to prevent the sauce over thickening and burning and,
towards the end, check seasoning. They like lots of salt here but you may get
enough out of the bacon for your taste. If not, add a pinch or so to taste.
Then take it off the heat and let it settle. Before serving, add cream to the
sauce which by now should be thick as gravy.
I have never used a ‘Crock Pot’ but I imagine such a device would be ideal once
you have assembled all the ingredients into one pot. As I have already said,
this works with chicken as well but you get the best flavor if you use the
genuine free range ones that are tougher than the farmed varieties.
This dish is best served with red cabbage (cooked German style), German
Spaetzle (to soak up the sauce) and a cucumber dill cream side salad.
That was
the end of my original comment. So now,
just for Big Don Kev, here is the rest…
Red
Cabbage, German style (well, my style anyway!)
Chop up one
large onion, place in a big heavy pan with a bit of goose fat or beef or pork
dripping (or olive oil) and fry them off until they are clear and slither about
the pan. You can caramelize them
slightly but don’t let them burn!
Burning ingredients brings many forms of bitterness; in your heart when you look inside the pan
and say, ‘Shit! I’ve burnt them, now I have to start again’; for the flavor of
the dish and finally, for your family who eat it and think to themselves, ‘I
wish Mum had cooked tonight’. So don’t
burn anything!
Peel and thinly
slice a couple of tart apples (coring them first obviously) and chuck them in.
Slice a red
cabbage up into thin ribbons discarding the heavy white core and chuck them
in. Give it all a stir and then add a
bloody good slosh of wine vinegar, about half a whisky glass full, give it
another stir and bang the lid on the pan to let the lot steam for a couple of
minutes.
Add a bay
leaf, a few whole cloves, a few pinches of salt, a heaped teaspoon full of
brown sugar and a loaded tablespoon full of thick plum or damson jam, the stuff
that looks brown rather than artificially purple. The Germans call that jam Pflaumenmus and
instead of being gelatinous like ordinary jams, it resembles the slurry oozing
out of a Russian industrial estate but believe me, it is fantastic. I am sure you must be able to get it in UK by
now. If not, go for any fruit rich plum
or damson jam. If it is homemade, even
if it is runny, so much the better.
Beef stock
or wine?
Now you
have a choice and I know my dear old Granny (yes, I am in my mid-fifties and my
German Granny is, thankfully, still alive) would argue with me on this but,
bear with me while I explain. This stuff
has to simmer for at least a couple of hours so the liquid we have added so far
will not be enough. There are those,
curiously putting their health before culinary happiness, who say you should
now add plain water. What a load of
tosh. There are those, my dear Granny
included, who say we should add white wine.
Granny, my darling Granny, matriarch of the Von Borken family, we have
wine vinegar in there, why do we need to add only wine? Naturally, when I am in Baden-Baden and in
her kitchen, I do it her way but when I am beyond her stern gaze, I add beef
stock and only a dash of wine. This red
cabbage is served as an accompaniment to rich game so we need to give it some
legs so it can punch the diner’s tonsils on the way down. So I would suggest keeping the mixture
simmering in beef stock, adding maybe another dash of wine vinegar an hour into
the process. For the beef stock, the real stuff is of
course best but an OXO cube dissolved into a litre of water is fine, you’ll
probably only need half the stock anyway so you are not going to over flavor
it. Knorr is rubbish, by the way.
For the
last half hour, you want the liquid to reduce so you need to keep an eye on the
pan stirring it occasionally because IT MUST NOT BURN!
Once it is
no longer sloppy and with a wooden spoon you can extract a real heaped spoonful
, turn off the heat, bang the lid on again so it can rest and finish off the
other dishes.
I realize
that if you want to do your Pheasant/Guinea Fowl/Wild Chicken with Rotkohl and
Spaetzle you will need to be around to rattle the pans for a couple of hours
but believe me, with practice, you can do all that and in the meantime mow the
lawn, install a new loft hatch and service the truck. Oh and wash the pans, of
course. All before the wife gets home.
It is nearly Valentine’s day so if you are up for the
Pheasant dish and the red cabbage, just buy the Spaetzle, I am certain it’s
available in any decent delicatessen and all you have to do is cook it like
pasta. It is, though, incredibly easy to
make but you really need one of these, a spaetzle press:
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A lot of people hate doing things manually, they want to see an On Off button but this is so easy |
It is also
good for ricing potatoes and squeezing the water out of soaked socks so they
dry quicker on the radiator. The socks,
not the potatoes.
With one of
these, all you have to do is follow the step-by-step instructions for making
Spaetzle in less time than it has taken you to read this far on this excellent
site: http://step-by-step-cook.co.uk/sidedishes/spaetzle/
Dominic has
been making himself spaetzle with my press since he was nine. He has it for breakfast frying up chopped
bacon and mushrooms in a pan with loads of butter and then adding the spaetzle.
Now you
need an entrée. Buy a bag of frozen King
Prawns (like if you want to go crazy Big Don, buy lobster tails), let them thaw
out and peel them. Buy some really
crispy lettuce, a few cherry tomatoes, some celery and some ripe Avocados. Now you need some Heinz Salad Cream, Tomato
Ketchup and some Tabasco Sauce. Beat up
in a bowl (sorry about all the washing up) a 50:50 mix of salad cream and
tomato sauce. Add a few drops of Tabasco
(we don’t want ‘Burning Bum By Morning’ but we do need a little piquancy), salt
and pepper, give it all a stir and place to one side. I am surrounded by ravenous dogs so ‘placing
to one side’ for me means higher than they can jump. Shred the lettuce and make a bed of it on a
large flat plate. Don’t go mad, Mad Big
Don, this is just a garnish, we’re not disguising a grave with vegetation
here. If the prawns/lobster tails are
from a reputable source, such as Findus, then place them in a colander, boil up
a kettle of water and blanche them to remove any trace of equine DNA before
sticking them in the fridge to chill. If
they are from your local EU unlicensed fishmonger then they are likely to be
raw and unlikely to be anything else other than prawns or lobster tails so just
steam them in a colander over a pan of hot water with a bit of chopped garlic,
onion and wine for a few minutes and then chill them in the fridge.
Don’t be
tempted to slice into the avocados until moments before you assemble the dish
unless you really hate your guests.
There are many ways of testing the quality of an avocado (poking the
end, squeezing it) but I subscribe to the John Gray method. I realize Scotch Eggs do not grow on trees
but they are more or less the same shape and scoffing a couple on the way home
is a sure fire guarantee of quality so remember to buy a couple extra. I can go through Avocados at the rate of
about one every ten miles, if I am driving, more if I am the passenger.
Slice a
couple of the cherry tomatoes into as thin strips as you can. Slice four inch sticks of celery into as thin
strips as you can.
Shit, I
forgot the Mangos. Peel a ripe Mango and
slice the flesh off. It is always easier
to peel just a bit of the skin off, slice the exposed flesh and then peel it a
bit more and so on. Peeling the whole
thing and then trying to slice it makes the flesh mushy.
Bollocks, I
forgot the fresh coriander leaves as well.
Seriously, I am rubbish at writing about cooking but stick me in front
of the pans…
So nip back
to the supermarket and buy a bunch of fresh coriander leaves.
When you
get back, give everything a stir to make sure it isn’t BURNING and then chop
some of the coriander up finely.
Peel the
avocado. This is dead easy. Just attack it with a knife. I usually kill them cleanly by quickly
slicing them in half and giving them a twist so the big brain in the middle
falls out. Peel the skin off and then
slice them lengthways but not quite to the end.
This way, pressing a hand down on top of them causes their earthly remains
to spread out in a wonderful fan. Slide
a Chef’s knife or spatula underneath and lift this onto the restrained bed of
crunchy lettuce. Squeeze a few drops of
lemon juice over the avocado. On top of this lay a few slices, we are
talking no more than two or three wafer thin segments here, of mango. Now assemble the prawn/lobster tail on top. Over this sprinkle just the tiniest hint of
the chopped fresh coriander leaves. Then
as artistically as clumsy fingers allow, spread some of the salad cream/tomato
sauce mixture over the pile. A good
dollup. Don’t be shy but bear in mind, your
guests are interested in what they are about to eat so while they are thanking
God for what they are about to receive, they may also be grateful for a glimpse
of steamed crustacean so they recognize what they are about to receive.
Toss the
celery and tomato in a bowl to mix them up but not beat them into submission and
then add a small multi-coloured bird’s nest of finely sliced celery with a hint,
a mere smidgin of the finely sliced tomato
on top. Crown this with the tiniest,
thinnest slice of Mango and a few larger coriander leaves.
So we have
sorted the Entrée out. You know how to
prepare your pheasant/chicken/Guinea Fowl, the German style red cabbage and you
are going to buy ready-made Spaetzle (like most Germans do) so now we are just
missing the side salad and a dessert.
I have
maids which makes it easy for me. I
honestly hope you have a dishwasher because we need more bowls.
Peel and
thinly slice a couple of cucumbers. Lay
the slices out in a bowl and finely sprinkle a bit of salt over each
layer. Do not go overboard Big Don Mad
Alviti, just the very lightest dusting.
Think where the Boss says, ‘Give him a good kicking but don’t kill
him’. I know once you have a loaded
packet of salt in your hand it is hard, but this time we need subtle.
Stick the
bowl in the fridge and forget about it for an hour or so.
Where I
live, Big Don A, I can only buy UHT cream which tends to come out of the packet
as a stream of water followed by disgusting lumps which needs a good hiding
with a whisk to get it looking half normal.
I am sure where you are, you can buy really nice fresh cream. Buy some of that, give 250 mls or so a little
stir in yet another bowl (you run out of bowls yet?) and mix in some finely
chopped fresh dill, at least two tablespoons full. If you have left the cucumber for a couple of
hours you will find it is swamped in salty water. Drain the salty water off and add the cream
and dill, stir it up and stick it back in the fridge. This will be your palate cleansing side
salad.
Apart from
the pheasants which you had to go out and shoot, everything I have mentioned in
this Valentine’s menu is available in a supermarket so let’s keep up the
momentum and talk about dessert.
Buy a big
tin of peach halves in syrup and a normal sized can of pitted black cherries. If you can't get tinned pitted black cherries, no matter, just warn everyone and provide a small plate for the spits, I mean pits.
Open the
tins but only pour out the syrup into a heavy based pan (more washing and
scrubbing I know). If you have one,
chuck in a sliced vanilla pod. Also add
a small piece of cinnamon bark and a clove and reduce the liquid to about a
quarter of the volume. Then remove the whole
spices. The juice should be quite
syrupy. Add the peach halves and black cherries and fry them up. You will need to gently flip the peach halves
over a few times. DON’T BURN THEM!
You could, and
I urge you to try, flambé them at the table in front of a startled audience but
I have found that while my sons are delighted by my theatrical extravagance, my
wife is more concerned about our thatched roof.
If your wife feels the same way as mine, call the kids through to the
kitchen on the pretext of collecting the plates and eating irons to lay the
table, slosh in the Cointreau or Cognac and let rip. It is a bonding experience when the kids rush
back into the lounge shouting gleefully, ‘Mummy, Mummy! Dad’s just burnt his
eyebrows off and had to put his head in the washing up bowl! It was EVER so funny!’
Covered in
Vanilla ice cream and the rest of the whipped fresh cream, this makes an
excellent dessert.
Bon Appetit Monsieur Big Don 'Mad' Kev Alviti!
Go on, admit it. How many of you having read my last post saw the title of this one and thought, shit, it's turned into a shoot out at Fat Hippo's?